In a brilliant juxtaposition, he was pictured in both a womenswear look consisting of long pinstriped dress over trousers, topped off with a large necklace, and a men’s suit. Where others flaunted, dreamed, lusted, “I disobey”, and “I am not what you think I am” were the words which accompanied two of his images. When he appeared in Calvin Klein’s AW16 campaign this year, the slogans accompanying his images were similarly rebellious. “His personal style comes across one part rock star, two parts Cockette, with hints of hip-hop mallrat and Venice Beach stoner dude rolled into one ceaselessly entertaining package.” In the accompanying shoot by Harley Weir and styled by Robbie Spencer, Thugger sported a Molly Goddard tutu, floral Gucci lace, and a leopard Ed Marler silk robe.
“On any given day, he could be wearing leopard-print dresses, pleather baby tees, miniskirts, circular Elton John sunglasses or draped, unconventional tunics,” wrote Patrik Sandberg in our cover story on the rapper, back for the Autumn 2015 issue. Where Bowie flirted with the lines and rules of gender at a time dominated by the crotch hugging masculinity of rock, Thug’s wardrobe is defined by the same fearlessness, albeit in a context of a different masculinity, one that’s stereotyped by hoodies and chains. Thug’s release has more in common with David Bowie’s famous 1971 cover for The Man Who Sold The World, where he lounges in a chinoiserie silk dress on a chaise longue. Safe to say, Jeffery is not your typical hip-hop album cover – compare it to other rap releases of the year which feature artists on sleeves: there’s French Montana loaded with gold chains with a similarly blinged out monkey on his shoulder, DJ Khaled sat on a throne with a lion, or Kevin Gates, topless and tattooed, and holding his fingers to his head like a gun. Ignoring what people are saying and thinking.” “Everyone can wear whatever they want to. “I think in his cover image that he exactly (captured) the point, my point,” said Trincone over email. Appropriately, the collection was about breaking down ideas of male and female, introducing a new meaning for masculinity. The Fader report that Thug first saw the outfit by emerging Italian designer Alessandro Trincone while judging the entrants for the upcoming VFiles fashion show – VFiles then flew the look out to Atlanta for the shoot. On the cover, he’s pictured in a floor-length blue ruffled dress, layered over a white shirt and complete with a hat that resembles a parasol. Last night, the Atlanta rapper dropped his latest EP, No, My Name is Jeffery. When it comes to rap and hip-hop, the fashion tropes surrounding male performers are well-known: Balmain jeans, hefty jewellery, sneakers and streetwear. Like Taylor Swift, whose high-waisted skirts and matching crop tops are an inoffensive uniform primed for the palate of Middle America, or Justin Bieber, dressed in ripped jeans, faux vintage metal tees and tartan shirts which attempt to portray the same good-boy-bad-boy recklessness as his lyrics. For musicians, it’s not enough to have a sound – you need a look.
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